17 Comments
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Andrew Crabb's avatar

Hey James, I was unaware of your new venture until I saw you today at the Philly Bike Expo. Too awestruck to say anything, I instead checked your Instagram, saw you had a new thing going, and instantly signed up. So great to have you back online!

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James Huang's avatar

Thanks so much for the support!!!

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Fred Ddbg's avatar

Reading news of Seven is like discovering some bands of the 90s you loved and almost forgot about are in fact still touring and releasing new albums.

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Alex Boone's avatar

Totally. I worked at a Seven dealer throughout college in the mid aughts and always had huge respect for their work.

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Alex Boone's avatar

I happened to pick up a Phenom Pro last week at the local bike shop. It had literally just hit their dock, despite not being officially released. I'd been waffling over the $450 S Works version since it came out, but my biggest hangup with spesh carbon saddles is the odd placement of the rails that limits saddle fore/aft positioning. The Ti rails seem to be a bit more 'normal', and the saddle itself is very comfortable so far.

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James Huang's avatar

Not surprised to hear that! Good 3D-printed saddles are shockingly expensive, but also incredibly comfy.

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Alex Boone's avatar

Your previous reviews, along with those from other trusted tech editors, in recent years had me very curious. (My butt thanks you, but my wallet does not) I've always been a firm/narrow/flat saddle kind of guy, but finding something for my Lauf Seigla with a little more forgiveness without sacrificing my desired position has proved elusive. This might just be the ticket.

Now I'm tempted to try out the Prologo Nago R4 PAS 3D saddle for my Aethos (currently riding a Prologo Zero C3 Nack).

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James Huang's avatar

As good as most 3D-printed padding seems to be, I still say the saddle *shape* is the most important thing. Selle Italia works really well for me, for example, so much so that I can ride their bare unpadded carbon saddles for hours (at least on the road). Once you've got that figured out, feel free to go to town on the padding. But I'd definitely prioritize the shape first, and there's unfortunately no good way to know besides trying something. Thankfully, many brands now have trial periods.

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SCOTT BOOTH's avatar

Related to the Seven portion of today’s newsletter… Rodriguez (formerly (and still kinda) R&E) cycles in Seattle does sizing in much the same way. They have well over 20 “stock” sizes, and the turn around on getting your custom steel frame can be just weeks. The sizing process was multiple hours for me, as we poked and prodded our way to a bike that, simply put, just feels right!

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Jacob Cooley's avatar

Appreciate the tire breakdown!

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Kent's avatar

Bummed Specialized didn't release the 2.5" tires that Koretzky was riding in the WCs last year, or did I miss that and they released them already? Also, what titanium bike is that in the Old Man Mountain photo?

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James Huang's avatar

I don't think you've missed anything, but I wouldn't rule out the possibility Specialized might release more sizes in the future, either.

As for the bike, I'm not sure on the exact model, but I know it's a titanium setup from French brand Chiru.

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richie c's avatar

I bought bolt on skewers to replace the quick releases on my commuter. But I still don't feel comfortable as most thieves have an allen key. Hot glue should offer another level of security.

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James Huang's avatar

Certainly couldn’t hurt! Thieves most definitely carry tools around.

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David Walker's avatar

Ah, cold solder joints. Answer- never! When I am out and about my bike comes with me. I’ve never had a store or whatever that cared. However, a fine dining establishment might not like it. A. friend had his MTB seat and seat post stolen while in the bathroom at a gas station. The thieves are pretty quick.

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David Walker's avatar

How do you get solder in bolt heads without damaging the parts? Normally you’d need to heat the bolt to the solder melting temperature. For metal parts that’s ok (except for paint damage) but what about bolts securing carbon parts? Can you heat then without damage?

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James Huang's avatar

Great question! The bolt really doesn't get that hot at all if you do it right. I'm mostly just melting solder into the bolt, not heating up the bolt so much that the solder melts to it on contact. The bolt head only barely warms up this way.

Better question: what the heck are you doing leaving a bike somewhere with carbon parts on it long enough for someone to yank a bunch of stuff of it?? ;)

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