What do Clik valves offer me over what Schraeder valves have provided forever?
Seriously, I really don’t like presta valves because I often need pliers to open the valve (I carry a leatherman specifically because of this problem.)
Twenty years ago I used to drill out my rims to fit schraeder valves because that’s how much I hate presta, but I’ve learnt to tolerate them since then (mostly due to buying more exotic wheels)
I recently discovered e-thirteen’s schraeder valves that have the same smaller diameter bases as presta valve bases so they don’t need the rims drilled out.
Why would I choose Clik valves instead of schraeder valves that I can easily fill at any car service station around the world?
I personally don't love Schrader valves because I've often found it a little finicky to depress the valve with certain pump heads. It also sometimes seems like it requires more effort to get things connected. Clik Valve is lower effort and more consistent in that sense, but while Schwalbe does offer an adapter for Schrader pumps, I'm not sure how well it'd work with gas station compressor heads.
Regardless, if what you're using now works well for you, I'd just stick with it.
I switched to Clik on 4 bikes a few months ago and love them! Based on that experience, last week I decided to change another 3 family member bikes over too.
One unexpected benefit is that they seem to lose less air than Presta valves. I have TyreWiz sensors on a couple of bikes, and the pressure loss over a few days is much less than it was with Presta (and all I changed was the cores, so there's nothing else it could be due to).
Yes, definitely! Happy to answer whatever questions you have about it, but in the meantime, I can say that I've been really impressed by it. It's a big improvement over previous helmet models they've had. The fit is totally dead-on (which is remarkable considering they use only a single frontal image and a physical circumference measurement), the ventilation is much better than I'd expected (and a noticeable improvement over previous KAV helmets I've used), and it's very comfortable.
Still need to verify how much room there is for hats/skullcaps/etc.
My only gripe is the browpad. As it stands currently, it doesn't absorb even a bit of sweat (I'd say some sort of headband is almost mandatory), and it doesn't take long before it starts dripping into your glasses.
Thank you for sharing your initial thoughts on it! I’m a pretty heavy sweater and always get sweat in my eyes wearing my MTB helmet so that was a concern of mine. I typically wear a skull cap, but worried about it fitting in the Rhoan. I’ll await the final review to get all the details, but really hoping there’s enough room for something on your head to absorb the sweat.
To be clear, I've started using a Halo headband with mine and it fits just fine. No issues at all. I just haven't tried it yet with something thicker like a winter skullcap.
I think it’s awesome you reviewed appleman cranks! Definitely the type of thing I’m here for…I love the concept, the modularity (and the colors!) but I do wish he had gone with a standard spindle/spider interface (3 bolt?) for easier conversion with existing parts most people would have.
Really looking forward to the Cinturato Evo tires. I bought a set of Pirelli's P-Zero Race tires in ultrawide 40-622 around Halloween last year, on the strength of Bicycle Rolling Resistance's recommendation for their narrower cousins.
Right as I had about smoked that set of tires maybe two months ago, BRR came out with its review of that width, and it turned out that rather than being a super racy extra wide road tire, it was more a of a touring tire with super high puncture protection and the like. They were still the fastest tires I'd ever put on my gravel bike (my previous tires were a set of Maxxis Ramblers in 45, and boy were they stinkers; I only run Maxxis for trail/enduro/DH these days).
After that, I purchased a set of Conti Terra Hardpack tires, 50-622, and not only do they have fantastic results on BRR, but they're cheap too. A set of tires costs the same as a single Schwalbe G-One tire. I've been extremely impressed, and the tires remain pretty much new even with close to 1000 miles on them. The problem, as with a lot of Conti offerings, is they only come in one width, and the 50 tire barely fits in the rear of my new Ti gravel bike.
Thanks for the balanced appraisal of the pros and cons of the new Zipp wheels. I wish Zipp would listen to prospective customers who want to buy their wheels but do not because Zipp's growing list of additional features come with too many tradeoffs.
Question: if the sensor and battery add extra weight, would this require a counterweight?
It does require a counterweight, and Zipp has incorporated it into the opposite side of the rim.
As much as the AXS sensor doesn't necessarily appeal to *me*, I do appreciate the difficult situation Zipp is in. It really has become incredibly challenging for legacy premium aero wheel brands to figure out how to stay relevant, particularly with the rise of DTC brands like Light Bicycle.
I don’t under the need for real time pressure measurements. I have never wondered about my tire pressure while on a ride in over 40 years. Punctures are easy to detect without a sensor and i never adjust my pressure during a ride unless I am experimenting with tire I which case I carry a gauge. The SRAM solution of adding a battery, counterweight, and a special tube to every wheel seems like a questionable approach. The idea of needing a special tube in a tubeless setup to measure pressure is a non-starter for me.
The theory is that at a high performance level, having your tires inflated to the exactly correct pressure will save you more watts than the weight savings. It’s about more than just pressures too high/too low. That’s why they added the sensor to axs so it can be monitored from your head unit
I understand the concept. However, in a race or something where a few watts matter you would always set the pressure with a gauge before you started. If you noticed you were a few pounds off in the middle of a race would you really stop and change it?
Agree they need to innovate on more than just better hubs and carbon layups. Otherwise it’s all just from the same factories in Xiamen. From personal experience, I have 9velo wheels and they’re really excellent wheels, for literally less than 1/3 the price of these Zipp ones.
Walking that fine line, I guess, between useful technical innovation and marketing gimmicks.
And also funny/ironic that rather than abandoning hookless, as many customers have asked for, Zipp has added an air monitoring system to ensure people don't over-inflate their tires. And that solution to the problem comes with other complications: additional weight, more batteries, proprietary straws for sealant, etc.
Regardless of your viewpoint on road hookless, it's clear that Zipp has gone all-in on the concept and it certainly wouldn't be easy to reverse course now.
Like I said, definitely a tough place for brands like Zipp (or Enve, etc) to be in at the moment. It was one thing when there weren't many brands doing good-quality pre-built wheelsets, but now? Yikes.
at the risk of starting a grease/anti seize flame war, are you saying you use this as general grease for threaded assemblies, or bearing grease, or even more than that? Personally I have 3 different flavors of park stuff (polylube, high performance hpg-1, and anti seize asc-1), and generally know the difference, but i often suspect I could get by with one flavor of do-it-all grease in many cases. Is that kind of what you’re getting at?
I think the Transmission AXS upgrade kit geared towards people who buy a certain model of a bike that hits a price point/value they are looking for but has mechanical Transmission on it.
Just like car companies with “trims”, bike companies package a lot of things together to try to justify price increases between models. For instance, I’m sure there are plenty of people who are ok with aluminum handlebars and wheels instead of carbon but still want the low maintenance and consistency of electronic shifting.
You weren’t explicit that this is a factor, but to dial in on it, I am also a huge fan from a Right to Repair perspective —
you get to swap to nicer stuff, or just repair it as-is more easily! Another example is with the new SRAM Eagle Transmission rear derailleur lower cage, where you can replace the pulley wheels with the fancier and lighter XX pulley cage assembly, or just more easily replace as is if it’s damaged.
Last year I did a mod of a shimano grx rear derailleur, to swap to a garbaruk lower cage so I could run a larger rear cassette. That swap was possible, but much fiddlier, and man I wish I could have just swapped it out like the above.
Good point, and thanks for drawing attention to that aspect. For sure I'm a huge fan of being able to fix stuff. Speaking of which, I should see if SRAM offers replacement bodies for the new mechanical Eagle rear derailleurs.
I have tried the Clik Valve and it is cool. The problem is that it's not so cool that it will convince people to change on in a widespread way. We have like 1000 Schwalbe tubes in boxes in the shop. We are not about to stop and change each one out or more importantly, change each customer's mind about the valve they should use. This could be a better mousetrap.. I actually hope I am wrong.
Yeah — it feels to me like most people should just hold off and wait for the presta replacement wars to settle a little bit. There seems to be a tension between “improved presta” stuff like Fillmore, vs changing the interface like Clik. Which one of these “should” win, if you had to pick just one?
I just switched to Clik valves and love them. Three bikes, both floor pumps and mini pumps. So far, everything is great- good flow, no clogging. I like them so far.
It seems like the other benefit of the click valve is not bending the presta valve core, which seems to happen to me very, very often. Especially with my new Topeka floor pump, which requires pushing the pump head on quite far and hard.
So, as long as I can simply buy the cores, and install them into my existing valve stems (I’m not about to pull all tires and valve stems off all 28 tubeless wheels in my household), this might be worthwhile.
I certainly have had a frustrating moment waiting for the start of an enduro race stage, deciding to add some air to my tire, and then inadvertently unscrewing the presta valve decide with my screw in mini pump.
I got the Birzman Snap-it pumps to try and remedy that, but it doesn’t work as well as it should.
Have you made your own brown sugar? Surprisingly easy and you can make it as needed. A recipe from one of my go-to sources.
https://www.seriouseats.com/homemade-diy-brown-sugar-recipe
I have not, but that's a good one to keep in the back pocket for sure.
Hey James,
What do Clik valves offer me over what Schraeder valves have provided forever?
Seriously, I really don’t like presta valves because I often need pliers to open the valve (I carry a leatherman specifically because of this problem.)
Twenty years ago I used to drill out my rims to fit schraeder valves because that’s how much I hate presta, but I’ve learnt to tolerate them since then (mostly due to buying more exotic wheels)
I recently discovered e-thirteen’s schraeder valves that have the same smaller diameter bases as presta valve bases so they don’t need the rims drilled out.
Why would I choose Clik valves instead of schraeder valves that I can easily fill at any car service station around the world?
I personally don't love Schrader valves because I've often found it a little finicky to depress the valve with certain pump heads. It also sometimes seems like it requires more effort to get things connected. Clik Valve is lower effort and more consistent in that sense, but while Schwalbe does offer an adapter for Schrader pumps, I'm not sure how well it'd work with gas station compressor heads.
Regardless, if what you're using now works well for you, I'd just stick with it.
Kudos to Otso for their transparency and calling a tariff a tariff
Good read as always.
There's overlapping content in the Clik valve part you might want to fix.
I switched to Clik on 4 bikes a few months ago and love them! Based on that experience, last week I decided to change another 3 family member bikes over too.
One unexpected benefit is that they seem to lose less air than Presta valves. I have TyreWiz sensors on a couple of bikes, and the pressure loss over a few days is much less than it was with Presta (and all I changed was the cores, so there's nothing else it could be due to).
Oh interesting. I wouldn't have expected that, but that's good to hear.
Another great article as always! Think we will be getting the KAV Rhoan review soon? Holding off on pulling the trigger until I read your review lol.
Yes, definitely! Happy to answer whatever questions you have about it, but in the meantime, I can say that I've been really impressed by it. It's a big improvement over previous helmet models they've had. The fit is totally dead-on (which is remarkable considering they use only a single frontal image and a physical circumference measurement), the ventilation is much better than I'd expected (and a noticeable improvement over previous KAV helmets I've used), and it's very comfortable.
Still need to verify how much room there is for hats/skullcaps/etc.
My only gripe is the browpad. As it stands currently, it doesn't absorb even a bit of sweat (I'd say some sort of headband is almost mandatory), and it doesn't take long before it starts dripping into your glasses.
Thank you for sharing your initial thoughts on it! I’m a pretty heavy sweater and always get sweat in my eyes wearing my MTB helmet so that was a concern of mine. I typically wear a skull cap, but worried about it fitting in the Rhoan. I’ll await the final review to get all the details, but really hoping there’s enough room for something on your head to absorb the sweat.
Thanks again!
To be clear, I've started using a Halo headband with mine and it fits just fine. No issues at all. I just haven't tried it yet with something thicker like a winter skullcap.
Ahhh good to know. I use Halo headbands as well. Fingers crossed it has room for winter gear as well! Appreciate that nugget :)
I think it’s awesome you reviewed appleman cranks! Definitely the type of thing I’m here for…I love the concept, the modularity (and the colors!) but I do wish he had gone with a standard spindle/spider interface (3 bolt?) for easier conversion with existing parts most people would have.
Really looking forward to the Cinturato Evo tires. I bought a set of Pirelli's P-Zero Race tires in ultrawide 40-622 around Halloween last year, on the strength of Bicycle Rolling Resistance's recommendation for their narrower cousins.
Right as I had about smoked that set of tires maybe two months ago, BRR came out with its review of that width, and it turned out that rather than being a super racy extra wide road tire, it was more a of a touring tire with super high puncture protection and the like. They were still the fastest tires I'd ever put on my gravel bike (my previous tires were a set of Maxxis Ramblers in 45, and boy were they stinkers; I only run Maxxis for trail/enduro/DH these days).
After that, I purchased a set of Conti Terra Hardpack tires, 50-622, and not only do they have fantastic results on BRR, but they're cheap too. A set of tires costs the same as a single Schwalbe G-One tire. I've been extremely impressed, and the tires remain pretty much new even with close to 1000 miles on them. The problem, as with a lot of Conti offerings, is they only come in one width, and the 50 tire barely fits in the rear of my new Ti gravel bike.
Thanks for the balanced appraisal of the pros and cons of the new Zipp wheels. I wish Zipp would listen to prospective customers who want to buy their wheels but do not because Zipp's growing list of additional features come with too many tradeoffs.
Question: if the sensor and battery add extra weight, would this require a counterweight?
It does require a counterweight, and Zipp has incorporated it into the opposite side of the rim.
As much as the AXS sensor doesn't necessarily appeal to *me*, I do appreciate the difficult situation Zipp is in. It really has become incredibly challenging for legacy premium aero wheel brands to figure out how to stay relevant, particularly with the rise of DTC brands like Light Bicycle.
I don’t under the need for real time pressure measurements. I have never wondered about my tire pressure while on a ride in over 40 years. Punctures are easy to detect without a sensor and i never adjust my pressure during a ride unless I am experimenting with tire I which case I carry a gauge. The SRAM solution of adding a battery, counterweight, and a special tube to every wheel seems like a questionable approach. The idea of needing a special tube in a tubeless setup to measure pressure is a non-starter for me.
The theory is that at a high performance level, having your tires inflated to the exactly correct pressure will save you more watts than the weight savings. It’s about more than just pressures too high/too low. That’s why they added the sensor to axs so it can be monitored from your head unit
I understand the concept. However, in a race or something where a few watts matter you would always set the pressure with a gauge before you started. If you noticed you were a few pounds off in the middle of a race would you really stop and change it?
Agree they need to innovate on more than just better hubs and carbon layups. Otherwise it’s all just from the same factories in Xiamen. From personal experience, I have 9velo wheels and they’re really excellent wheels, for literally less than 1/3 the price of these Zipp ones.
Walking that fine line, I guess, between useful technical innovation and marketing gimmicks.
And also funny/ironic that rather than abandoning hookless, as many customers have asked for, Zipp has added an air monitoring system to ensure people don't over-inflate their tires. And that solution to the problem comes with other complications: additional weight, more batteries, proprietary straws for sealant, etc.
Regardless of your viewpoint on road hookless, it's clear that Zipp has gone all-in on the concept and it certainly wouldn't be easy to reverse course now.
From personal experience, I have 9velo wheels and they’re excellent for literally less than 1/3 the price of these wheels
Like I said, definitely a tough place for brands like Zipp (or Enve, etc) to be in at the moment. It was one thing when there weren't many brands doing good-quality pre-built wheelsets, but now? Yikes.
Fat fingered, I Meant to write a longer comment agreeing with you! :)
Silkolene moto grease is an interesting tip —
at the risk of starting a grease/anti seize flame war, are you saying you use this as general grease for threaded assemblies, or bearing grease, or even more than that? Personally I have 3 different flavors of park stuff (polylube, high performance hpg-1, and anti seize asc-1), and generally know the difference, but i often suspect I could get by with one flavor of do-it-all grease in many cases. Is that kind of what you’re getting at?
I think the Transmission AXS upgrade kit geared towards people who buy a certain model of a bike that hits a price point/value they are looking for but has mechanical Transmission on it.
Just like car companies with “trims”, bike companies package a lot of things together to try to justify price increases between models. For instance, I’m sure there are plenty of people who are ok with aluminum handlebars and wheels instead of carbon but still want the low maintenance and consistency of electronic shifting.
You weren’t explicit that this is a factor, but to dial in on it, I am also a huge fan from a Right to Repair perspective —
you get to swap to nicer stuff, or just repair it as-is more easily! Another example is with the new SRAM Eagle Transmission rear derailleur lower cage, where you can replace the pulley wheels with the fancier and lighter XX pulley cage assembly, or just more easily replace as is if it’s damaged.
https://support.sram.com/hc/en-us/articles/13828179402267-How-do-I-replace-the-cage-assembly-on-my-SRAM-Eagle-AXS-Transmission-derailleur
Last year I did a mod of a shimano grx rear derailleur, to swap to a garbaruk lower cage so I could run a larger rear cassette. That swap was possible, but much fiddlier, and man I wish I could have just swapped it out like the above.
Good point, and thanks for drawing attention to that aspect. For sure I'm a huge fan of being able to fix stuff. Speaking of which, I should see if SRAM offers replacement bodies for the new mechanical Eagle rear derailleurs.
That’s my thoughts as well- get electronic for less than a bike with a bunch of things that you don’t care about.
I have tried the Clik Valve and it is cool. The problem is that it's not so cool that it will convince people to change on in a widespread way. We have like 1000 Schwalbe tubes in boxes in the shop. We are not about to stop and change each one out or more importantly, change each customer's mind about the valve they should use. This could be a better mousetrap.. I actually hope I am wrong.
Right? It's like you kind of just wish it would magically be done.
Yeah — it feels to me like most people should just hold off and wait for the presta replacement wars to settle a little bit. There seems to be a tension between “improved presta” stuff like Fillmore, vs changing the interface like Clik. Which one of these “should” win, if you had to pick just one?
Clik Valve is really, really good. It just works exactly how you'd want something like that to work.
I just switched to Clik valves and love them. Three bikes, both floor pumps and mini pumps. So far, everything is great- good flow, no clogging. I like them so far.
It seems like the other benefit of the click valve is not bending the presta valve core, which seems to happen to me very, very often. Especially with my new Topeka floor pump, which requires pushing the pump head on quite far and hard.
So, as long as I can simply buy the cores, and install them into my existing valve stems (I’m not about to pull all tires and valve stems off all 28 tubeless wheels in my household), this might be worthwhile.
I certainly have had a frustrating moment waiting for the start of an enduro race stage, deciding to add some air to my tire, and then inadvertently unscrewing the presta valve decide with my screw in mini pump.
I got the Birzman Snap-it pumps to try and remedy that, but it doesn’t work as well as it should.
On my wheels I just changed the valve cores from Presta to Clik. Took less than 5 minutes per wheel. For my pumps I used the adapters.